Carl Steadman is the cofounder of Suck and a columnist for the Industry Standard. He is the world's only Microstar. Whenever you see this © you should think "Carl."

Days in the Life

"Have you ever thought about launching an anti-Gap? To cash in on the Gap backlash?" asked an attendee at a recent panel discussion on the future of commerce. "No," said a frowning Gap spokesperson, "we choose to focus on our brand." The followup question came quickly: "So what about Old Navy?"

Buy a basic black t-shirt for $15.00, $14.50, or $9.50. The difference? The tag inside the collar: Banana Republic, The Gap, and Old Navy, respectively. All three are divisions of Gap Inc.: the same khakis pockets are lined regardless of which shirt you choose. And the shirts are remarkably similar in design and construction. Your selection may have less to do with your fashion sense than your sense of self.

Market segmentation means that everybody gets a piece of the pie chart -- retailers can provide just the right mix of atmosphere and accessorization to appeal to its target psychographic, while you, the consumer, get fashions tailored to your particular (if not particularly unique) tastes. Those seeking downscale détournement under the bright fluorescents of Old Navy aren't the same people shopping for this season's comfortably casual renditions of last year's Castro and Christopher Street fashions at the woodgrained Gap.

Back on Brooks Brothers-clad Madison Avenue, brands like Old Navy and Banana Republic are called flankers -- they protect a mainstream brand like the Gap by shielding it from competition on the high and low ends. After all, people might slide down the slippery slope from Dockers to 501s if it weren't for Banana Republic to keep them out of harm's way. Old Navy, on the other hand, may solely exist to prove that the Gap, a self-described "fashion safety net," can't possibly be the antithesis of style: cargo pants, anyone?

	Banana Republic	The Gap	Old Navy
Description?	Basic Crew	Short-Sleeved Classic T	Heavyweight T
Price?	$15.00	$14.50	$9.50
Made in?	Northern Mariana Islands	Mexico	Peru
Fabric care?	"Machine wash warm delicate cycle"	"Machine wash warm"	"Machine wash cold"
Store Decor?	Diffused lighting, dark woods	Fluorescent and spot lighting, light woods	Fluorescent lighting, industrial shelving
Background music?	Ben Folds Five	Cornershop	Missy Elliott
Paper or plastic?	Shirt wrapped in tissue, then placed in paper bag	Plastic bag with cloth drawstring handles	Plastic bag with holes punched out for handles
Benediction?	"Thank you for shopping at Banana Republic."	"Thank you. Have a nice day."	(Cashier walked away from counter.)
Brand identity? (From The Gap, Inc. annual report.)	"An American sensibility, a sophisticated style, a relaxed attitude, an adventurous spirit"	"Modern American classics with a twist"	"Value-priced apparel"

carl@smug.com

in the junk drawer